Well the first few days were really chilled and I said we were really beginning to like Budapest, but it was time to find out if there was more than nice food and nice hostels. After chatting with the hostel host she was able to recommend a trip down the Danube (which separates the two sides of the city) and we both agreed this was a good first step (hop). So we headed on down to the river and for around 3 pounds each took a hour long sight seeing tour, which took us from just after the Elizabeth bridge (currently being renovated), past the impressive gothic Parliament building around the Margitsziget island and past the Buda side of town where the impressive castle stands upon a massive hill. All this was with a reasonably price refreshments bar and an excellent English commentary, really good value for money, really informative and highly recommended.After the boat trip feeling the recently digested pain killer taking effect I suggested we head towards an ornately decorated building to check it out. Turns out this was a massive indoor market, selling everything from meat and veg (loads of paprika) to tablecloths and chess sets. We spent a good few hours wandering around the various stalls (mainly running away when some one attempted to engage in conversation, 2 days of relative isolation obviously had affected out confidence slightly). Upstairs in the market hall there are about a dozen food stalls. Nina grabbed a falafel (fussy vegetarian) and I just pointed at some meaty sludge and a concoction of spuds from a traditional Hungarian stand and tried my luck. Still couldn't tell you what it was but it was good and about 1.50 including a drink.
We headed back to the hostel to rest up before heading out again for another awesome meal. Mine consisted of several meats include the local speciality of goose liver. Nina chanced a vegetarian speciality which seemed to go down well (but then with vegetables there is no real risk are there?). Feeling buoyed by our first sites of Budapest beyond the first few closely located streets we decided the following day we would hit another tour, this time on the bus, this of course was to take place after moving to a slightly less expensive less roomy hostel.
We found are new hostel quickly and were somewhat perturbed by the dilapidated building and we had to press buzzer 13 to enter. Wandering up the steep stairs with backpacks in tow, we were beginning to think our luck of choosing nice hostels had run out. But No! once we entered we were greeted by a really friendly member of staff and shown to a really nice small double room. She even did our washing for us for about 3 quid so we were obviously chuffed (finally we would look semi presentable again).
The bus tour cost about 8 quid each but this was for a 24hr hop on hop off tour, again really good English commentary. Sadly though no windows just open spaces and considering the fact that the British weather had once again hunted us down occasionally the tour descended more into a log flume style affair. We did a loop and a half of Budapest picking out possible sites to visit. Before finally alighting near the infamous Terror Haza (I had spotted this attraction in the Lonely Planet book and desperately wanted to visit it). This oppressive looking building was the old head quarters for the Arrow Cross agency of Hungary's brutal past. It had also been used as an office and prison for various dubious but horrific government agencies of their grim past. In all truth we got there a little bit late so had to take a rather brisk walk through but still found it a very interesting eye opening experience (accompanied through by some of the scariest communist style gloom music ever). The place literally sent shivers down the spine, everyone generally knows a bit about the KGB, Gestapo, SS etc but I was not aware of the Hungarian equivalents and struggle to understand why, I mean these guys were pretty mean.
After leaving we planned to cheer ourselves up with a trip to heroes square but as it was still teaming it down we opted to get the metro back to the hostel to chill before heading out in the evening. The following day we decided would be our last full day in Hungary and so we planned to head firstly to Statue park and secondly to Heroes square before heading to the river for a meal.
Getting to statue park was a mission (25km from central Pest), basically you could pay extra and get a direct coach or get there using public transport (a metro, another metro, a tram and then a bus). Feeling adventurous we opted for the second option and quickly regretted it, but we soon found our feet and in the end were glad of the experience. Statue Park is a really great place to head to - it is basically where, after the fall of communism, many of Budapest's communist memorials and statues were taken to (rather than just destroying them). It stands not as a celebration of the era but more a memorial of the past they had endured. Regardless of what the statues stood for they were magnificent objects and despite the continuing rain we had a good hours or so looking around the park. Getting back to town was a little easier.
We headed straight over to Heroes' Square, the weather taking its toll a bit and the 2km walk causing a little discomfort (should have taken the tram again really, Doh!). Once we got there we were dead impressed (and dead on our feet). The square has a huge 3 piece monument, 2 pieces containing Hungary's past monarchs in various glorious poses, the 3rd is a huge pillar atop of which is the Angel Gabriel (guardian of Hungary). This made Trafalgar square look a bit dull, and much to Nina's relief there were no pigeons.That evening we took a meal by the Danube (not living the high life, but food there was just so cheap and so great). It had got on a bit so many of the restaurants were closed. However after finally finding two open we had quite the decision to make. Option A being an authentic British pub, option B being a Hungarian restaurant with surly looking waiters. We weren't read to sit with Brits again just yet so we took option B and immediately thought we had made a dramatic error. As we saw, once seated, a string quartet heading in our general direction (felt sorry for the guy on double bass having to drag it back and forth across the restaurant). Luckily though they had their targets locked on a neighbouring table. Unfortunately one of the guests felt she could sing along and the quartet new many Andrew Lloyd Webber numbers. We momentarily considered asking the waiter for extra bread just to stick in our ears. Once again though we did have a really great meal with a lovely bottle of Hungarian white wine.
We checked out of our hostel on the last day but left our back packs whilst we went to find out how to get to Romania. The initial plan was to head to Bucharest but for some reason we changed our minds and decided to head to Brasov instead. A decision we would later come to regard as one of our best thus far. Sleeper train tickets successfully purchased we stocked up on water and snacks for our first experience of an over night train in Europe (11hrs ish), having being sleeper train novices we had a rather interesting experience ahead.
We had loved our time in Budapest and I would strongly recommend anyone young or old to head here as soon as possible. Full westernisation will shortly follow and Budapest may start to lose some of its charm.
TTFN
Daz
(still loving it)
